Prada opened Milan fashion week with 63 looks that deliberately excluded dresses and trousers, placing the skirt at the center of its new direction.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who have shared design duties for six years, built the collection around this single garment. “She had the idea to focus on skirts this time. And I said, why not make it an all-skirt show?” Simons said before the presentation. Prada noted that skirts offer a balance that dresses cannot. “The way I think and feel is complicated, contradictory. If I wear something feminine, I want to wear something masculine too. A dress is all one idea, and we are never just one idea.”

The runway featured knee-length A-line and pleated styles in wool, leather, and silk. Designers added subtle contrasts through side splits, sheer overlays, and embroidered details. Models paired the skirts with plain sweaters, shirts, or minimal heels. Simons emphasized the practical range of the pieces, noting they work for professional settings, casual family time, or evening wear.

The collection arrived during a period of leadership shifts across Milan. Donatella Versace stepped down from her family brand last year and announced a new venture on the eve of the fashion week. The 71-year-old is partnering with California-based Revolve Inc to launch beauty products next year, with clothing to follow. Pieter Mulier, formerly of Alaïa, will take over as Versace’s lead designer next season.

Other historic houses are also navigating transitions. Armani appointed Dario Vitale to Emporio Armani last week, positioning him as the eventual successor to the late Giorgio Armani. The Fendi family has similarly stepped back, appointing Maria Grazia Chiuri to lead their brand. These changes mark a departure from Milan’s long-standing tradition of family-run stability.